Rome 3 - Basilica San Clemente

Before my first visit to Rome in 1999, I had read about Basilica San Clemente and put it on my "must see" list. It was not a disappointment and a return visit definitely a requirement of my recent trip. In the late 1600s the basilica was granted to the Irish Dominican order because of religious persecution in Ireland, and this still seems to be a Roman pilgrimage site for the Irish to this day. Further information on the basilica and its history can be found here. The upper level, "modern" church is beautiful and has an outside garden area. There are several frescoes or beginnings of frescoes -- elegant line drawings on a wall towards the back of the church. Photography is not allowed in the church and my postcard of one of these drawings will not show up in a scan. I was unable to find images of these under drawings online  (there are 2) so please do take my word for it!

Below the newer basilica is the older 4th century basilica! It is very thrilling to walk back through time by walking downstairs. Much of this hallway was familiar to me from my previous visit, but I was amazed at how much had been newly excavated in 16 years.

I love the walls where finds were placed willy-nilly after excavations in the 1800s. I am sure this earlier way of dealing with finds horrifies contemporary archaeologists, but I think it makes for a fascinating display.

In 2005 apparently, a number of frescoes were restored in the old basilica so they were totally new to me. There is now better lighting (still atmospherically dim), footpaths and didactics to explain what is on view. This is a depiction of the Descent of Christ into Limbo/The Harrowing of Hell and is believed to be a portrait (left) of St Cyril. The tomb with which this fresco is associated is believed to be St Cyril's tomb.

The didactic to this fresco told a very complicated and funny story of a Christian visiting a home and the master of the house (who was later converted and became a saint) was infuriated at this religious transgression and called the Roman guards to remove him from his home. Everyone got confused and the soldiers struggled to arrest a column. The master of the house told them to "put their backs into it" while the Christian made his escape. There was another fresco with an equally amusing story of a hermit who returned home to work as a servant for his family who did not recognise him till he died. Meanwhile, he made his home with them for many years, living under the stairs.

On the level below the old basilica lies the Mithraeum. One is not allowed in this room so viewing is from a window structure. It would be nice to get a closer look at the altar and the sculpture behind it. The Mithraic temple's footprint is smaller than the basilica, but there is also wall evidence of other buildings and in one of the "rooms" one can hear the water running from a still-working Roman aqueduct.

London - Sir Frederic Leighton at the V & A

I was in London last week, and among loads of things that impressed me, I saw some work by Sir Frederic Leighton at the Victoria & Albert Museum. I've always had a soft spot for the pre-Raphaelite painters of the 19th century (my interest in illustration and romantic bent rearing their heads!) so was pleasantly surprised to see an exquisite tiny flower drawing of Leighton's in an exhibition of British drawing. Even more exciting though, I stumbled across rooms 102-107, a large corridor, where mock-ups, a full size "cartoon", and Leighton frescoes were exhibited. The corridor was somewhat dim, I presume to protect the work.

This is "The Industrial Arts as Applied to Peace" -- difficult to photograph because of lighting and size. For a sense of scale, please note that the figures are life size! The arched room is panelled with more Leighton works.

This is a detail of an arch panel.

There is a smaller painting of the fresco which is a full mock-up.

 But the most exciting piece for me was the full size "cartoon"  for this fresco. I also found out why they are called cartoons - but that is another story!

What magnificent drawing!

I love this lion's head handle on the side of a jug.

I was reminded of what had attracted me to Leighton's work back in art school. I was just starting my journey into dreams, psychology, psychoanalysis, etc. and came across an image of Leighton's painting "Flaming June".

I still lived at home with my parents in 1980, and my younger sister was a great model - when she was asleep! Here is one of my sketches of her from that time:

I later turned this into a small painting (I don't remember what happened to it). From the same sketchbook, here is the working out of some colour -- with a strong Matisse influence:

Dee Dee asleep appears in many sketchbooks, and I did a large painting of her in 1980 or 1981. (At the time, many of my friends would jokingly express surprise if they ever saw her awake!)